![]() However, since there is an extensive list of materials suitable for making rivets, it is essential to use the right material with the desired mechanical properties compatible with the parts that need connecting.Īluminum is a standard metal variant used in making rivets and fasteners. Stainless steel, aluminum, brass, and copper are primary materials that help to meet various product standards. You can use different materials to create different rivet types for your products. More importantly, ensure the rivet’s bottom is identical to the workpieces to complete the riveted joint. Step 6: Once you hammer the tail, it flattens the material making the tail spread about one and a half its actual size. Step 5: When you install the rivet, the tail/shank comes out at the opposite end of the part where you will deform it. Step 4: Insert your rivet in the hole drilled through the materials you want to join together. Step 3: You must drill a hole precisely 1.5 mm more than the rivet diameter you want to install. It will help to ensure the efficient joining of the materials or components. ![]() Step 2: The next step is determining where to install the rivet on your parts. It would be best to consider factors such as the ideal rivet material, type, and size to do this successfully. Step 1: You need to determine the suitable rivet for your parts. ![]() To have a firmly installed rivet, here are a few steps to follow: It expands the rear causing it to hold the rivet in place firmly. This process is called upsetting or buckling. The rivet’s tail transforms into a shop head after you deform it with a hammer. The preformed head of a rivet is a “factory head,” while a new head known as the “shop head” is created after inserting the rivet in the components that need joining. This process is relatively straightforward and practical. The general working principle of a rivet requires drill bits to punch a hole in parts while you install the rivets in a hole and deform the tail. The repair is invisible except that one latch is more shiny and less scarred than its fellows.Īsk again in about ten years and we'll see how it looks.Rivets are a fundamental tool used to construct several machines and structures. I re-glued the inner lining with white glue, used rolled-up magazines inside to hold the lining in place while the glue dried. I then "set" them using two ball pein hammers, one outside as an anvil and the smaller inside to hammer down the rivet legs. The new latch was mounted, the new rivets pushed through the original holes and their ends spread with a small thin screwdriver and curled back with tiny needle nose pliers. There was some wood damage as the rivet legs pulled out but I tried to get the new rivets rotated to a different angle to get plenty of wood under the rivet legs. I then punched the rivets through to the inside and removed them. ![]() I went to plan B, carefully center punched the rivet heads on the outside and drilled them until the head was gone. My original plan was to bend the factory split rivets straight but they were seriously embedded in the wood. I peeled back the internal padding in the affected area. Split rivets are the way to go for more strength, and were used by the factory on the latches for the Geib Style case that I recently repaired. The wood is usually too thin and soft to hold a screw. Reglue the lining with hot melt glue.Screws are easy, but I never had much faith that they would hold for very long. You must peel back the lining to install the rivets. Sometimes I install a thin metal backing plate if I think the rivets won't hold. Split rivets are used to attach the hardware. Hopefully your new case will be under warranty! Of course to my eyes the old case simply gained more character from the two new latches with the slot-head bolts and aged brass look. Was so pleased with the first I added one more for a total of five. Bought a shiny new brass coated latch from Rockler as basilking described, gave it the old vinegar and salt treatment to "age" it to match its neighbors,Ĭarefully pealed back the inside lining with the help of a sharp knife, snipped off the ends of the original rivets, used brass bolts and lock nuts (didn't want to invest in a rivet toolset for a couple of $5.00 latches) to attach the top and bottom pieces, tightened them down, snipped off the ends and covered them with small self-adhesive cushion pads, hot-glue gunned the lining back on, and.well, there you have it. On the same case I also replaced the locking latch w/keyhole that wouldn't close and kept springing open. ![]() Jim's right, I've done this to one latch on an old Geib-style case from the '60's, used vice-grips to crimp the latch tigher, was also concerned it was becoming too likely to slip off when closed. You may be able to bend them some to tighten them up, while on the case. ![]()
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